An important element of the value chain
Fibres are an important part of the value chain. Therefore it’s a logical next step for ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme to include fibre production processes and their raw materials. In 2018, the scope of the Programme extended to include the production of Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF). This is the first fibre production area included in the Programme. More materials will be added in the future.
Global viscose production is growing fast, which is why the initial focus is on Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF; including viscose, modal and lyocell). MMCFs are produced from natural feedstock like wood or plants, using hazardous chemicals. Within the production process of viscose and modal, particularly where that’s not an integrated (closed loop) process, chemicals react with the cellulose. This creates by-products, which can be released into the air, water and soil, so we’ve been working to tackle the issue.
An 2018 industry expert report commissioned by ZDHC concluded that restricting chemicals via the ZDHC MRSL approach would not work. The restrictions would halt most MMCF production processes. We would achieve most impact by collaboratively setting guidance around good chemical management and limits for wastewater, sludge, and air emissions during fibre production. At the same time ZDHC can continue researching MMCF production processes using less hazardous chemicals.
In March 2018, ZDHC hosted the first multi-stakeholder MMCF roundtable with representatives from approximately 80% of the global MMCF production. Several ZDHC Signatory Brands attended, including C&A, Coop Switzerland, Esprit, Inditex, H&M, M&S, Primark, PVH Corp and F&F, as well as Value Chain Affiliates Lenzing Group, BIRLA CELLULOSE, Sateri, Canopy, Textile Exchange, Bluesign and the China Chemical Fibers Association (CCFA), the Collaboration for Sustainable Development of Viscose (CV) and the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles.
The roundtable agreed that ZDHC should lead a collaboration to develop a framework of guidelines for wastewater, sludge, waste and air emissions specific to MMCF production, and expectations for process by-product recovery rates. The guidelines will, for now, focus on MMCF production. Dissolving pulp production processes will be considered at a later stage.
Fibre production is a unique industry and presents distinct challenges. To address this, ZDHC has developed fibre-specific guidelines.
This document addresses integrated expectations for discharged wastewater quality, emissions to air, and chemical recovery for manufacturing facilities producing Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF). It expands the scope of the guidelines beyond Viscose and Modal Staple Fibres to include other Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres such as Lyocell, Viscose Filament Yarn, Cupro and Acetate. The creation of this document was made possible through a collaborative effort between ZDHC and our stakeholders from across the industry, including MMCF manufacturing facilities, brands, service providers and other subject matter experts.
This support document underlines the steps and actions necessary to implement the ZDHC MMCF Guidelines and support the involved stakeholders during the implementation.
The guidelines document is an initiative by ZDHC to address the use and discharge of chemicals in
wood-based dissolved pulp manufacturing*. It includes chemical recovery, wastewater and air emission requirements for wood-based dissolved pulp facilities. The creation of this document was made possible through a collaborative effort between ZDHC and our stakeholders from across the industry, including dissolved pulp manufacturing facilities, brands, service providers and other subject matter experts.
*This document does not cover the process of turning textile waste into dissolved pulp for MMCF.
The document is an initiative by ZDHC to address the use and discharge of chemicals inwood-based dissolved pulp manufacturing*. It includes chemical recovery, wastewater and air emission requirements for wood-based dissolved pulp facilities. The creation of this document was made possible through a collaborative effort between ZDHC and our stakeholders from across the industry, including dissolved pulp manufacturing facilities, brands, service providers and other subject matter experts.
*This document does not cover the process of turning textile waste into dissolved pulp for MMCF.
The use of recycled polyester in the fashion industry has grown increasingly. In order to support the industry with a framework for sustainable chemical management in the production process for bottle-to-textile and textile-to-textile recycling processes, ZDHC has developed the Recycled Polyester Guidelines V1.0.
These guidelines set requirements, across three chapters, for recycled polyester manufacturers on key chemicals used in recycled polyester processes, the recovery and reuse of these chemicals, safe chemical storage and handling, worker safety and the environmental impacts of commercially viable processes on wastewater, air and sludge.
This support document underlines the steps and actions necessary to implement the ZDHC Recycled Polyester Guidelines and support our stakeholders during the implementation.
