Roadmap To Zero

A ZDHC Performance InCheck Report is based on the chemical inventory as uploaded by a supplier via a third party solution provider platform approved by ZDHC.

For All the approval of the third party solutions and to find the solution providers please check https://www.implementation-hub.org/providers

More information on the InCheck Solutions and other checktools can be found on https://www.zdhc-gateway.com/reports/incheck

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A ZDHC Performance InCheck Report is based on the chemical inventory as uploaded by a supplier via a third party solution provider platform approved by ZDHC.

All the approval of the third party solutions and to find the solution providers please check Implementation Hub Providers

More information on the InCheck Solutions and other checktools can be found on ZDHC Gateaway Incheck

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An important element of the value chain

Fibres are an important part of the value chain. Therefore it’s a logical next step for ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme to include fibre production processes and their raw materials. In 2018, the scope of the Programme extended to include the production of Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF). This is the first fibre production area included in the Programme. More materials will be added in the future.

Global viscose production is growing fast, which is why the initial focus is on Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF; including viscose, modal and lyocell). MMCFs are produced from natural feedstock like wood or plants, using hazardous chemicals. Within the production process of viscose and modal, particularly where that’s not an integrated (closed loop) process, chemicals react with the cellulose. This creates by-products, which can be released into the air, water and soil, so we’ve been working to tackle the issue.

An 2018 industry expert report commissioned by ZDHC concluded that restricting chemicals via the ZDHC MRSL approach would not work. The restrictions would halt most MMCF production processes. We would achieve most impact by collaboratively setting guidance around good chemical management and limits for wastewater, sludge, and air emissions during fibre production. At the same time ZDHC can continue researching MMCF production processes using less hazardous chemicals.

In March 2018, ZDHC hosted the first multi-stakeholder MMCF roundtable with representatives from approximately 80% of the global MMCF production. Several ZDHC Signatory Brands attended, including C&A, Coop Switzerland, Esprit, Inditex, H&M, M&S, Primark, PVH Corp and F&F, as well as Value Chain Affiliates Lenzing Group, BIRLA CELLULOSE, Sateri, Canopy, Textile Exchange, Bluesign and the China Chemical Fibers Association (CCFA), the Collaboration for Sustainable Development of Viscose (CV) and the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles.

The roundtable agreed that ZDHC should lead a collaboration to develop a framework of guidelines for wastewater, sludge, waste and air emissions specific to MMCF production, and expectations for process by-product recovery rates. The guidelines will, for now, focus on MMCF production. Dissolving pulp production processes will be considered at a later stage.

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Supporting sustainable chemical management

A sound sustainable chemical management system (CMS) supports worker safety and reduces environmental impacts within the community and the broader environment.

Supporting the adoption and implementation of the ZDHC CMS, two documents are publicly available.

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ZDHC CMS Framework‍

The ZDHC CMS Framework provides the textile, apparel, and footwear industries with a united base. It can be incorporated into a broader management system, such as an Environmental Management System (EMS).

The ZDHC CMS Framework gives a high-level overview of the CMS requirements. However, each organisation defines its implementation scope and may include specific operating unit(s) or a range of parts of its value chain. Brands, suppliers and facilities can adopt the CMS Framework with the Chemical Industry, Service Providers, and other supply chain partners.

Please note: The ZDHC CMS Framework is complementary to every regulatory, operational, or product requirements. Its intent is to be used to measure the success of an organisation’s own chemical management system.

ZDHC CMS Technical Industry Guide

The ZDHC CMS Technical Industry Guide covers the implementation of a CMS in the supply chain.

The CMS Technical Industry Guide provides the basis to harmonise requirements across Brands and Suppliers in the implementation of Sustainable Chemical Management. Suppliers can tailor and implement their plans to meet the harmonised expectations, whether they are tanneries, dye-houses, mills, printers or footwear assembly units, or another kind of facility.

Implementation

For more extensive implementation support and training, visit the ZDHC Supplier to Zero and ZDHC Academy.

A Chemical Inventory template

A Chemical Inventory list (CIL) is a list of all chemical formulations kept or used in a facility. An organisation should have a robust process for creating and updating the CIL. We provide a template to help organisations in creating this valuable resource.

Having a well-run CIL assists with purchasing decisions. It also promotes responsible usage, pollution prevention, traceability and chemical handling decisions. A CIL also helps to control future disposal costs. As an example, tracking chemical storage may indicate excess chemicals are available in another facility, thus preventing unnecessary purchases.

The content of Chemical Inventory should include; the chemical commercial name, SDS information, identification numbers (CAS no.) of hazardous substances present, hazard information of the chemical formulation, conformance of the chemical formulations to requirements, amount of storage or consumption, and storage location.

This information, amongst others, helps an organisation to select the right PPE for chemical use and identify the correct storage conditions. If chemical information is missing, there must be a corrective action plan to obtain this data from chemical suppliers.

The Chemical Inventory can be compiled by completing the following actions: a) stock take (items and quantities held in storage), b) delivery information (items and quantities delivered) and c) use information (items and quantities used).

The Chemical Inventory list should be regularly updated and its information maintained for purpose. It is recommended to follow, at a minimum, the following frequency: a) Stock take, annually and b) delivery c) usage information, monthly.

The CIL should be maintained by a responsible person whenever chemicals are purchased, stored or used. The revision date should be clearly marked in the inventory. It is recommended to highlight changes to the CIL content. The template CIL offers guidance to meet all of the above requirements.

Organic solvents are used in various processes in the apparel and footwear industries. The ZDHC MRSL V3.1 includes a ban on the intentional use of specific organic and halogenated solvents in textile, leather and footwear production and is therefore a signal to the industry to take appropriate action to shift to safer alternatives.

While ZDHC recognises that these solvents will be termed as ZDHC MRSL non-conformant, these solvents may still be used for specific applications in textiles and footwear or in the transition period towards a time-bound phase-out strategy at facilities. This requires proper emission and exposure controls at the facility level to ensure worker health and safety and reduce their environmental impact. The halogenated and organic solvents for which these controls should be implemented by a manufacturing facility have been marked as “EC” (Emission and Exposure Controls) in the ZDHC MRSL V3.1.

This guide provides support to the industry in the transitional phase towards safer alternatives for these solvents. The objective of this document is to:

Guide facilities on a responsible approach in the use of solvents and solvent-based formulations to ensure proper emission and exposure controls
Advise on actions that can be taken by suppliers to shift to safer alternatives and processes in the textile, leather, and footwear industries for the ZDHC MRSL-listed solvents.

The intention of this document is to drive positive transformation for a sustainable supply chain and minimise emissions and exposure to workers and the environment through the implementation of best practices.

The ZDHC Responsible Solvents Approach Guide V1.0 should be read in conjunction with the ZDHC CMS Technical Industry Guide that outlines the framework for a general chemical management system at a manufacturing facility.

It is expected that all stakeholders engaged in the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme will adopt this guide where the use of the ZDHC MRSL listed solvents may be required, whilst undertaking all efforts to phase them out in a time-bound manner.

Suppliers are encouraged to implement actions as described in Tables 13 and Table 14 (“To Do” Checklist) in the document and understand the cross-references to the chapters/sections for more details on the actions required.

Brands are expected to create awareness about the guide with their supply chain partners wherever applicable, and monitor the implementation and phase-out activities at their suppliers.

Across three chapters the Recycled Polyester Guidelines V1.0 guides the industry on responsible recycled polyester manufacturing practices, from input through process to output.

Chapter 1 - Input management covers bottle/textile feedstock and chemicals used as inputs in recycled polyester production.
Chapter 2 - Process management covers best practices including chemical recovery, safe storage and handling of chemicals for worker safety.
Chapter 3 - Output management covers emissions from wastewater, sludge and air from the production of recycled polyester fibre.

‍Expectations of the industry

Brands should share these guidelines with their relevant suppliers and build in the request to implement these guidelines into their strategy and policies.
Suppliers should study these guidelines and take relevant actions to ensure implementation.

Dissolved pulp (DP) is the primary feedstock for producing man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCF) like viscose staple fibres (VSF), modal, viscose filament yarn (VFY), lyocell and acetate with high cellulose content (alpha-cellulose).

ZDHC has developed the Dissolved Pulp Guidelines V1.0 to enhance the
transparency of responsible production in the entire MMCF supply chain, from
wood sourcing to man-made cellulosic fibre (MMCF) production. The guidelines provide expectations for manufacturing facilities producing dissolved pulp from wood as a feedstock.

Input: The process begins with the input of sustainably sourced wood (linked
to sustainable forestry certifications), which undergoes precise chipping and
cooking processes.

Process: Advanced process management techniques, such as oxygen delignification and elemental chlorine-free (ECF) or total chlorine-free (TCF) bleaching,

ensure the effective removal of lignin and impurities. Chemical recovery systems
play a vital role in this stage, recycling cooking chemicals and reducing waste.

Output: The output is a high-purity pulp, ideal for producing a variety of cellulose-based products, including MMCF, along with emissions of chemicals to air, wastewater and sludge.

ZDHC has developed the Dissolved Pulp Guidelines V1.0 to enhance the transparency of responsible production in the entire MMCF supply chain, from wood sourcing to man-made cellulosic fibre (MMCF) production. The guidelines provide expectations for manufacturing facilities producing dissolved pulp from wood as a feedstock.

Input: The process begins with the input of sustainably sourced wood (linked to sustainable forestry certifications), which undergoes precise chipping and cooking processes.

Process: Advanced process management techniques, such as oxygen delignification and elemental chlorine-free (ECF) or total chlorine-free (TCF) bleaching, ensure the effective removal of lignin and impurities. Chemical recovery systems play a vital role in this stage, recycling cooking chemicals and reducing waste.

Output: The output is a high-purity pulp, ideal for producing a variety of cellulose-based products, including MMCF, along with emissions of chemicals to air, wastewater and sludge.

‍Expectations of the industry

Guidelines for Fibres

ZDHC Man-Made Cellulosic Fibre (MMCF) Guidelines

ZDHC MMCF Guidelines Industry Implementation Approach

ZDHC Dissolved Pulp Guidelines

ZDHC Dissolved Pulp Guidelines Implementation Approach